Looking for leather? Take a deeper look into the type and quality of leather to help you select your next leather piece!
The Tanning Process
There are two main tanning processes: chrome and vegetable.
Chrome Tanned Leather
- Treats leather with chromium and harsh chemicals
- Takes about two days to complete the entire tanning process
- Can thin out and soften leather pieces
Photo c/o Ettinger London.
Vegetable Tanning
- Eco-friendly; uses natural materials like tree bark or leaves (ie. leather pieces are soaked in vats filled with natural tannins for several weeks.)
- Longer tanning process
- Thicker and stiffer leather pieces than chrome tanned but soften with use
| Type | Qualities | Ideal For |
|---|---|---|
| Bridle | - Firm - Withstands weather - Oiled to create a darker hue - Often vegetable tanned | - Belts - Strops - Wallets - Covered flasks |
| Chrome Oil Tanned | - Durable - Soft and supple texture | - Bags - Cases - Briefcases |
| Latigo | - Combination tanned - Rigid but pliable - Used on products that require strength and flexibility | - Belts - Strops - Comb sheaths |
| Natural Vegetable Tanned | Great for embossing, molding, dying, and oiling - Absorbs oils and dyes - Holds its shape when dried | - Wallets - Pouches - Rugby Balls - Document Cases |
| Full-Grain | - Highest quality - Keeps luxurious appearance after many years - Develops sheen patina with use | - Wallets - Briefcases - Messenger Bags |
The Leathery Look
Avoid purchasing a leather piece just because you like the colour or style. You should carefully inspect the item to ensure it will be a durable and lasting item.
Stitching
First thing you’ll want to look for is a solid finish. Luxury leathers should feel heavy – that’s because of the high density of the fibers. If it feels spongy or looks like the top has been almost painted on, it most likely is lower quality and you’ll want to put it down (or return it).
Photo c/o F. Hammann.
Next up is stitching; it should be spot on! Hand stitching is the most durable and looks the nicest. It’s a time-honored technique that involves using two blunt needles attached to two ends of a single thread. The two needles pass through the same hole to create the knot. When the needles are pulled, the knot is sealed. Comparted to machine stitching, where only one needle is used as the leather moves through the machine, hand stitching is more durable and less likely to unravel.
Threads
Each stitch should be flat and the thread not frayed. Linen is said to be a popular thread used with leather because it’s a natural product that’s strong and flexible (the fibers are from the flax plant). Since linen is a dry fabric, makers usually add wax before and during stitching to eliminate knots or creating a sharp and precise appearance.
Photo c/o Daines & Hathaway.
Finish
Quality leather goods should have burnished and polished edges. This is what creates a seal to protect it from rain, snow, and other harmful elements. If not properly burnished, or polished, the edges can retain moisture and potentially rot.
Photo c/o Sonnenleder.
Cut
Just like wood, leather also has its own grain. It has to be cut in the direction of the grain. A bi-fold wallet, for example, should have the leather cut so that there’s little resistance at the stress points. If not cut properly, it will affect the wallet’s shape over time.
Fendrihan offers luxury and premium leather pieces. Shop quality leather Bags and Briefcases and Leather Wallets and Small Leather Goods at Fendrihan!
